Chengdu Part 3 – Three Kingdoms Legends, Kung Fu Tea, Ancient Streets & Hotpot Tips

After the trip to the misty heights of Qingcheng Mountain and the glowing “blue tears” of Dujiangyan, we decided to slow things down and explore within Chengdu’s city limits this time. Yes, Chengdu isn’t just pandas and hotpot—this city has a long and rich history, especially when it comes to the legendary Three Kingdoms period when it was the capital of Shu Han. That legacy is etched into its very streets—and nowhere more vividly than at Wuhou Shrine (武侯祠).

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Why “Wuhou Shrine”?

The name honors Zhuge Liang, the brilliant strategist and statesman of Shu Han, who was posthumously titled “Wuhou” (Marquis of Wu). After his death, this shrine was built to commemorate his loyalty, wisdom, and contributions to the state.

Unlike most ancestral temples in China, the Wuhou shrine shares its grounds with its emperor, Liu Bei. Here, the ruler and his most trusted minister are worshipped side by side—a rare arrangement in Chinese history, where emperors and officials are normally honored separately in distinct temples or ancestral halls. This unique pairing reflects the deep bond and mutual respect between Liu Bei and Zhuge Liang, a relationship immortalized in both historical texts and folklore.

Should You Go?

If you’re not a Three Kingdoms fan, you might wonder whether this place is worth your time. Well, it depends.

• Crowds: During Chinese holidays, the site gets packed. You’ll lose some of the tranquil, reflective atmosphere—but for many, the spiritual weight of the place still shines through.
• Online vs. Reality: You may have seen a stunning red-walled corridor online. It’s real, and it’s beautiful—but come early or you’ll be photographing a sea of heads.
• Cultural Threshold: The shrine is dense with historical references and literary inscriptions. If you’re unfamiliar with the Three Kingdoms saga, some parts may feel hard to appreciate. But if you’re even a little curious, let this be your guide to making it a meaningful visit.

Practical Info
📍 Address: 231 Wuhouci Street (Metro: Gaoshengqiao Station, Exit C)
⏰ Hours: 8:30 AM–6:30 PM (last entry 5:30 PM)
🎫 Ticket: ¥50 (Guided tours ¥20–50, with English options)

Quiet Paths, Loud Legends

The Wuhou Shrine is filled with an air of ancient grandeur. The walkways wind through a lush, green landscape, shaded by bamboo trees and dotted with pavilions and ponds covered with lotus leaves. The whole area feels secluded and peaceful.

Some buildings house vivid clay statues and relics from the Three Kingdoms period. Some are brightly painted, while others have a time-worn patina.

Highlights

The Entrance

Step through the main gate, and you’ll see two ancient stone steles—the Tang Stele and the Ming Stele:

• Tang Stele: Written by Tang Dynasty Prime Minister Wu Yuanheng, it praises Zhuge Liang’s leadership and intellect.
• Ming Stele: Explains why Liu Bei’s ancestral temple was preserved through dynastic changes—a rare phenomenon in Chinese history.

Zhaolie Temple – The Main Hall of Liu Bei

Inside the main hall, Liu Bei sits in the center. Beside him is not his son, Liu Shan, but his grandson, Liu Chen. This is no accident—Liu Shan was removed from the temple due to historical disdain for his surrender to the Wei kingdom.

Pay attention to:

• The inscription above the hall: “业绍高光”, meaning “to carry forward the legacy of greatness”.
• The statues of Guan Yu and Zhang Fei flanking Liu Bei. Guan Yu, later venerated as a god of war, and Zhang Fei, known for his deep loyalty and unmatched bravery, stood by Liu Bei not only as military allies, but as sworn brothers. Together, they took the famous “Peach Garden Oath” (桃园三结义), vowing to live and die together while striving to restore peace during the chaotic Three Kingdoms period. Their brotherhood became one of the most enduring symbols of loyalty and unity in Chinese culture—and their statues at Wuhou Shrine still stand shoulder-to-shoulder, as they once did in life and legend.

Hall of Zhuge Liang

A six-building complex surrounds the main shrine to Zhuge Liang. Here you’ll find:

• Famous calligraphy, including the “Psychological Warfare Couplet”, a masterpiece of political wisdom still relevant today.
• The peaceful ambiance of bamboo groves, echoing Zhuge Liang’s calm and composed nature.

The Corridor of Ministers and Generals

Lining this gallery are 28 clay sculptures of Shu Han’s most notable civil and military figures, along with a full carving of Zhuge Liang’s “Chu Shi Biao” (出师表), his memorial to the emperor before going to war—a 1800-year-old document every Chinese student has likely memorized.

It’s strategic manifesto, as well as a heartfelt declaration of unwavering loyalty. In it, Zhuge Liang lays out his tactical advice for restoring the state and pledges to exhaust himself in service to his ruler and the people, no matter the cost.

The Red Wall Corridor – A viral photo spot where crimson walls frame emerald bamboo.

Pro tip: go before 9 AM to snap that serene, crowd-free shot. We even spotted a few ladies in flowing hanfu.

Huiling Mausoleum – The Resting Place of Liu Bei

Walk past the red walls, you’ll arrive at Huiling, the tomb of Liu Bei and his two wives—Lady Gan and Lady Wu.

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Two other places not to be missed when in Chengdu are Kuanzhai Alley and People’s Park– two spots that beautifully capture the city’s traditional culture and laid-back lifestyle.

Kuanzhai Alley

Built during Emperor Kangxi’s reign (1661-1722), this is one of Chengdu’s last well-preserved Qing Dynasty neighborhoods. The area consists of three parallel lanes:

1. Wide Alley (Kuan Xiangzi) – The most bustling main street
2. Narrow Alley (Zhai Xiangzi) – More intimate with boutique courtyards
3. Well Alley (Jing Xiangzi) – The quietest alley, with artistic installations

Practical Tips

• Time to visit: 2-3 hours is usually enough (mornings or evenings for less crowds)
• Getting here: Super easy via Metro Line 4 (Kuanzhai Alley/Kuanzhai Xiangzi Station)
• Spending: Kuanzhai food is pricier – snack lightly and save meals for local alleys

Architectural Wonder

The architecture style of Kuanzhai Alley is mostly traditional Sichuan courtyards, with blue-grey brick, tile facades, and stone paved streets. From the grand archways and carved windows to the floral wall skirts, it all has a distinctly ancient Sichuan look. A highlight is the “Kai Lu” (恺庐) in Kuan Alley, with its curved arch and intricate wooden carvings, representing the artistry of traditional Sichuan craftsmanship.

A Foodie’s Paradise

The area is teeming with sweet treats and famous Sichuan snacks. You’ll see panda-themed everything, such as “Bingfen” (冰粉), a traditional jelly-like dessert made from plant starch and served cold, topped with a variety of toppings such as fruit, peanuts, and sugar syrup.

You’ll also find ice cream with a similar playful deco. However, be aware that prices can be on the higher side, as it’s a popular tourist spot.

Must Experience

Beyond food and architecture, Kuanzhai Alley lets you dive deeper into Sichuan’s traditional culture. You can try:

Kuanzhai Alley is where northern Chinese hutong culture meets western Sichuan architectural styles – a unique fusion not found elsewhere.

As you walk through, you can feel the charm accumulated over three centuries. Immerse yourself in its historical evolution, explore creative markets, and browse the retro stalls – it’s a great place to leisurely wander.

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People’s Park

After exploring Kuanzhai Alley, just a 15-minute walk or quick metro ride (600m from Metro Line 2, Exit D), you’ll arrive at People’s Park – the ultimate showcase of Chengdu’s legendary laid-back lifestyle.

If you come here early in the morning, you’ll catch the park at its liveliest, with locals practicing Tai Chi or sword dancing. As we wander, we spot elderly using giant calligraphy brushes dipped in water to write beautiful characters on the ground🎬(from 0:35). The temporary art fades in minutes, but the skill and fluid movements are mesmerizing to watch.

We also come across a Matchmaking Corner where parents post “resume walls” detailing their children’s age, occupation, and personality traits. Red papers for daughters, blue for sons – each one a sincere attempt to find potential matches for their kids.

The vegetation here grows with almost tropical enthusiasm. It’s as if you’ve entered a natural air-conditioned space amidst the sweltering Chengdu summer.

This cooling effect is no accident – the park’s 1911 designers intentionally planted hundreds of shade trees, creating what locals call “the green lung of the city.” Even when temperatures hit 35°C outside, under these leafy giants it’s always a comfortable 5-8 degrees cooler.

The air is thick with the scent of greenery – fresh, and oxygen-rich. The path is filled with dappled light, rustling leaves, and emerald lotus leaves glistening with moisture.

Beneath the pavilions, locals gather, chatting softly or fanning themselves in peaceful contentment. Along the covered corridors, a few lose themselves in a book, calm and absorbed.

If you arrive in the afternoon, you can:

• Paddle a boat on the willow-fringed lake, gliding through the ripples.
• Stroll the shaded paths, enjoying the soft murmur of the nature.

Highlights:

Penjing Garden (盆趣园):
Ranked among Sichuan’s Top 10 Gardens, this oasis featuring exquisite bonsai displays, and artificial mist rising from the water as gentle music plays from hidden speakers.

Teahouse:

This place is usually packed and the prices are on the higher end. If you don’t want to stick to the iconic Heming, the park also has many other local alternatives.

At some, you can sip tea while enjoying live traditional performances🎬, such as a melodic plucking of the guqin – a traditional Chinese instrument that sets the perfect backdrop for an afternoon tea relaxation.

This park is said to be where Chengdu’s soul resides. Come watch, participate, and understand why locals say: “In Chengdu, we don’t kill time… we savor it.”

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Sichuan Hotpot

We went for the classic yin-yang guo, which has two contrasting broths:
🔥 Spicy Beef Tallow (牛油): A deep, crimson pool of Sichuan’s signature málà (numbing-spicy) punch, loaded with chili and Sichuan peppercorns. One sip and your lips tingle.
🍄 Mushroom (菌菇): The soothing, earthy counterbalance – perfect for when the spice becomes too exhilarating.

The broths arrive made-to-order, with hot water poured tableside for maximum freshness.

Here’s what we ordered:
🥩 Beef Slices: Thin and nicely marbled, they cook in seconds into the spicy broth, emerging silky and rich.
🐮 Beef Tendon: Slow-cooked until it turns jelly-soft, with a satisfying bounce.
🐟 Black Fish Slices (boneless): Delicate, buttery, and perfectly flaky.
🧠 Pork Brain: Yes, really. Poached gently, it becomes creamy and custard-like, with a mild, almost sweet flavor.
🍤 Shrimp Paste: Fresh, smooth, bouncy quenelles that soak up the broths—they’re sweet, briny, and packed with seafood flavor!
🍄 Assorted Mushrooms: Earthy, meaty, nicely complementing the spice with their umami depth.

After the fire came the calm. We ordered a panda milkshake for dessert – light, floral, and mildly sweet, with slippery jelly noodles and matcha chocolate cookie as a cute, delicious finale.

The steam, the sizzle, and the flame – get ready to embrace the sweaty chaos! It’s messy, euphoric, and utterly Chengdu.

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Next up, we’re off to Leshan — Sichuan’s best-kept food secret! It’s lesser known, but some locals swear it has even better bites than Chengdu. Beyond its culinary scene, Leshan is also home to UNESCO World Heritage Site, the 71-meter-tall Giant Buddha carved into a riverside cliff. So, stay tuned – as Leshan’s giant flavors (and giant Buddha) are calling!