From Las Canteras Beach to Cuatro Puertas Caves: Sun, Sea, History, and Tempting Spanish Cuisine

Las Canteras Beach is one of the crown jewels of Las Palmas, with its picturesque shoreline that stretches for about 3 kilometers.

At its western end stands an architectural marvel, the Alfredo Kraus Auditorium.

With a design as unique as it is whimsical, it looks almost like a character from a children’s storybook or a conceptual art piece. From one angle, the structure is akin to a “robotic scientist” with a distinctive white hat that sparks curiosity and creativity. Its body is like a mishmash of different shapes, reminiscent of a playful combination of boxes or recycled metal, adding to its quirky charm.

In front of the auditorium lies a vast pile of stones that resemble volcanic rocks. Perhaps a nod to the island’s volcanic origins, this natural feature adds an intriguing contrast to the modern architecture and its surroundings.

The day we arrived at Las Canteras Beach, the coastline was a little misty, shrouded in a mysterious aura. The humid air and the cool, crisp sea breeze created a lazy, languid feeling. Despite the choppy waves, the golden sands still drew crowds of people engaging in various water sports and beach games.

Strolling along the street, the people, dressed in effortlessly stylish disarray, seem ready to jump into the water at any moment, especially the locals. Their skin, glowing with a healthy tan, shimmers from either the sweat of activity or the salty sea. With hair still damp and tousled, cascading over their shoulders, they radiate a carefree vitality, a natural grace that defies the bounds of neatness or convention.

A sense of freedom and ease is brimming.

This distinctive spirit of freedom transforms itself into an artistic scene, vividly painted on the old houses and walls, giving this place an extra dose of life and vibrancy. The energy here is infectious, boldly proclaiming a distinct attitude towards life.

There is no need for flashy skyscrapers or modern fancy buildings; the true essence of life is showcased through simplicity, modesty, and artistry – the raw power of life celebrated in the most unassuming ways.

Close by, the cheerful sounds of people playing and the crashing of waves fill the air. In the distance, the formidable shapes of mountains and sky, through the mist, slowly unveil their elusive splendor, completing the uniquely charming scene of Las Canteras Beach.

After some relaxing time on the beach, we made a little detour and visited an archaeological site on this island – Cuatro Puertas. Located near the town of Telde, it’s easily accessible by car. This site is believed to have been used by the indigenous Canarian people, known as the Guanches, who inhabited the island before the Spanish conquest in the 15th century.

A short hike (15-20 min) leads you to this remarkable place. The site sits majestically on a hill, perhaps chosen for its closeness to the sky, a step nearer to heaven.

The name “Cuatro Puertas” translates as “Four Doors.” It refers to the four large entrances carved into the side of a volcanic rock formation. Through the four entrances, you can enter the main cave, believed to have been an important communal or ceremonial space for the Guanches.

In addition to the main cave, several smaller caves surround the area. Some of these were used as living quarters, while others as storage spaces for food and other supplies.

One of the most intriguing features is the “Almogarén,” a sacred area used for religious rituals, with stone carvings and engravings thought to have been used in fertility rites and other ceremonies.

Many of these archaeological remains are well-preserved, presenting a peek into the lives of ancient civilizations. Imagine people living in these stone caves – they would rise with the sun and rest with its setting, with the vast landscape being their ever-changing view. Their lives, attuned to the rhythms of nature, seemed to transcend the frenetic pace of our modern existence, with our busy chases for all kinds of things. Instead, they focused on their community, contributing their share, honoring the heavens, and protecting their land.

It’s world where the spiritual and the earthly were intimately intertwined, a way of life long past, yet still inspirational today.

Tips for your visit:
  • Alfredo Kraus Auditorium: It hosts a wide variety of concerts and events. Check the schedule online and book tickets at least a few weeks in advance (for high-demand events, maybe a few months ahead).
  • Las Canteras Beach: The beach is usually very sunny, so don’t forget sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat to stay protected. The water is perfect for swimming, snorkeling and other water activities. Along the promenade, there’s plenty of restaurants and cafés for a bite or a refreshing drink. You can also find various beach facilities such as showers, restrooms, and rental services for sun loungers and umbrellas.
  • Cuatro Puertas: The hike is short and relatively easy, but as the trail can be rocky in places, so sturdy footwear is recommended. The site has no entrance fees. There’re guided tours by the locals if you’d like to learn more about the history and cultural heritage of this area. 

Today will be another delicious dive into typical Spanish cuisine! We’ll continue to explore the vibrant flavors of tapas and paella. After some thorough research, we found a great spot to do this: Bandera Tapas Y Copas. This restaurant offers a full range of Spanish delicacies that you can think of when you visiting this Spanish island – from cold and hot tapas to ham, casseroles, scrambled eggs, fish dishes, grills, and of course, paella!

Check out their menu here for a sneak peek. Initially, we planned to sample various types of tapas, but the sight of black paella at a nearby table changed our minds. We had to try it!

With the generous paella portion, we went easy on the tapas, ordering just two – one fish and one meat. If we return, tapas will definitely be the way to go.

The Pimientos de Piquillo Rellenos de Bacalao quickly became our favorite of the evening. This classic Spanish dish consists of roasted piquillo peppers, which are native to Spain, filled with cod fish and cooked in a rich tomato-based sauce. It’s topped with shrimp for a delicious seafood touch.

Cod is a lean fish, high in protein and low in fat. Usually, I’d expect it to be firm and chewy, but here it’s surprisingly tender and soft. It melts in your month with a savory and rich flavor and mild saltiness. Mixed with garlic and onions, it creates a flavorful filling that complements the sweet peppers perfectly.

The sauce is magical. Made from ripe tomatoes, garlic, and onions, it’s rich, thick, and creamy with a subtle buttery undertone and a hint of spice. Its velvety smoothness coats the stuffed peppers and shrimp, making every savory bite luscious and indulgent!

Pincho De Solomillo features skewered and grilled beef tenderloin, attractively presented with colorful peppers and yogurt-based herb sauce.

The meat is expertly grilled to medium-well – not too pink, not at all bloody, yet incredibly tender and juicy. With minimal fat, it’s packed with a luscious flavor without being greasy, proving the restaurant’s grilling mastery.

The beautiful caramelized char on the surface, formed from the meat’s natural sugars, adds a delightful smokiness and a hint of sweetness, enhancing its depth of flavor. This is nicely balanced by the vibrant peppers and the refreshing yogurt sauce, making it a great choice for lovers of finely grilled meats.

The black paella we tried this time was a pure, traditional version, free of green mojos, aioli, or any other meats and vegetables we’ve explored in a previous post. This simplicity allowed the dish’s distinctive deep, savory sea flavors to take center stage, paired with the comforting, hearty qualities of perfectly cooked rice.

The squid ink imparts a deep umami flavor to the rice, making it rich and savory. It tastes slightly briny, with earthy undertones and subtle hints of sweetness. Prepared with various seafood – shrimp, baby calamari, calamari rings, mussels, and octopus – the rice absorbs their flavors as it cooks, resulting in a harmonious blend where each bite is infused with the essence of the sea.

The ink adds a luxurious creaminess to the rice, making it very indulgent and satisfying. But here’s the scoop: with generous portions like these, consider covering the pan, especially if dining outdoors. The ink tends to dry quickly, so while you don’t want to rush it through, you do want to keep it warm, silky and smooth for as long as possible!  

Before wrapping up, we’d like to mention a very invigorating smoothie, featuring a blend of fresh celery, crisp cucumber, mixed with zesty tang of ripe kiwi, apple, and aromatic mint. It’s a total revitalizer, and a perfect accompaniment to the flavorful paella feast.

Hope you’ve enjoyed the read. Next up, we’ll head to Tejeda Town, a charming and tranquil mountain village surrounded by stunning landscapes. Join us as we journey onwards, surrendering our hearts to the passage of time and our palates to the spell of deliciousness. Stay tuned for more!

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