For those seeking a serene escape from Gran Canaria’s bustling tourist hubs, Playa de Tiritaña and Playa de los Frailes are the perfect spots. These relatively secluded beaches are easily accessible by car, with Playa de Tiritaña just a short 10-minute drive from Playa de los Frailes.
We parked our car about 10 minutes’ walk from Playa de Tiritaña. The way there felt like a passage through a forgotten dreamscape, marked by an unfinished road nearby that looked like a part of an abandoned resort project. The sky was a mesmerizing shade of blue, casting its brilliance over the landscape. Stone formations atop a nearby hill stood like ancient sentinels, silently watching over this hidden retreat that sees fewer visitors. All this adds a unique, mystical charm to the area.
Upon arrival at these rocky bays, we were greeted by a rugged and intimate sanctuary. Unlike the typical sandy beaches, here you’ll find larger stones and pebbles. The natural solitude easily envelops you. In this peaceful corner of the world, the only sounds are the slow, rhythmic waves caressing the shore.
In the naturally formed ponds on the beach, you’ll easily spot playful little fish frolicking freely in the sunlight. Even the usually shy crabs make a bold appearance, basking in the sun for a moment before quickly scurrying back into the shadows under the rocks.
The water is cool and inviting, nestled against the mountains that hug the coastline, creating a perfect natural setting for a refreshing swim. However, it’s wise to be cautious of the rocky terrain and occasional strong currents.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can take a one-hour hike over the mountains that connect Playa de Tiritaña to Playa de los Frailes, and enjoy the stunning coastal views along the way. Despite its uneven paths and occasional steep sections, the trail remains manageable for most hikers.
As we ascend the hill, leaving behind all sounds except the ocean’s distant ebb and flow, we feel ourselves shedding, layer by layer, our weariness and ambitions, wandering into a vast emptiness where the horizon draws near and stretches far, all at once. It’s as if we’re caught in a transient interlude of time and space; the world slows down and everything feels suspended in this quiet majesty.
At Playa de los Frailes, you’ll have softer sands that attract beachgoers seeking a quieter seaside experience. A cliffside trail to the right will lead you to a more tranquil spot.
Perched upon the stone piles at the trail’s end, we found a corner that felt both vast and intimate, with boundless sea and sky stretching infinitely before us.
As we watch the seawater change its colors in the sunlight and shadows, see it wash over strands of light, see it reflect every grain of sand and stone, see it sometimes raging, sometimes calm, time passes unnoticed. A distant boat drifts by; its sailor appears to notice us and waves warmly from afar. We return the heartfelt gesture—a fleeting yet heart-stirring encounter, treasured all the more in our solitude.
Tips for your visit:
- Rocky Shores: The beaches are rocky, so it’s a good idea to bring water shoes to protect your feet when getting into the water.
- Hiking Essentials: Wear sturdy hiking shoes and carry plenty of water when trekking between the two playas. The trails can be uneven and demanding.
- Stay Sun-Safe: Pack sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses. The sun can be intense, and there’s minimal shade along the trails. Start your hike early to avoid the peak heat.
- Cliffside Cautions: If you’re walking along the cliff trail, be mindful of loose rocks and narrow paths.
After a day of walking and climbing, what could be more rewarding than a delicious Spanish feast? This time let us introduce you to an absolute must-try restaurant on this island – La Tasquita Gallega. This family-run Spanish tavern serves up almost all the coastal flavors you could possibly crave while visiting Gran Canaria – grilled meats, veggies, fish, seafood, paella of different kinds, and an extensive selection of tapas. Check out their menu here.
With such a tempting array of tapas dishes, you can dive into a variety of flavors by ordering smaller portions at adjusted prices—just as we did!
Our first tapas choice quickly became one of our favorites: Empanadillas, or Spanish dumplings.
These savory pastries are stuffed with seasoned minced meat, boasting an irresistible, aromatic taste. The flavorful seasoning includes sautéed onions and garlic forming a fragrant base, complemented by oregano, fresh paprika, and earthy cumin. Salt and pepper perfectly round out the flavors, enhancing the juicy, rich minced meat, all encased in a crisp, golden pastry shell that delivers a satisfying crunch with every bite!
The oysters at La Tasquita Gallega are remarkably plump and juicy.
Each one comes in an exceptional size and bursts with a clean, briny flavor that evokes the freshness of the sea. The texture is smooth and slightly firm, providing a satisfying chew. Enjoy them raw, with a squeeze of lemon to enhance their natural sweetness and slightly salty flavor. Each morsel delivers a luxurious, refreshing taste that lingers on the palate.
Padrón Peppers, featured in our previous post, are a go-to tapas for us.
Quickly fried in olive oil until blistered and tender, they’re beloved for their simple and fresh taste. Served with a sprinkling of sea salt, they offer a savory contrast to their naturally mild, slightly sweet flavor. This vegetarian dish is ideal as an accompaniment to any other tapas or main meal, adding juiciness and crunch.
Galician Chorizo is known for its rich, savory flavor profile. It has a very robust taste with hints of pepper, garlic, and other aromatic spices used in its seasoning.
The sausage combines juicy, flavorful pieces of fat with lean meat, creating a firm texture and satisfying chewiness. When stir-fried with onions and bathed in a slightly spicy sauce, it develops a deep, hearty taste that is both savory and subtly tangy. With slightly sweet onions to balance out the rich meaty flavor, it’s a very delicious and well-rounded dish.
Vieras al Horno, or Spanish Baked Scallops, is a delectable tapas dish, cherished for their exquisite flavors.
Fresh, plump scallops are delicately baked to a perfect tenderness, accompanied by chopped onion cubes and parsley. These scallops, prized for their buttery, briny and even mildly nutty flavors, take on a subtle umami richness when cooked with aromatic onions and peppery parsley. They add vibrant color to the dish and elevate the natural sweetness and gentle brininess of the scallops, making each morsel thoroughly enjoyable to eat.
Arroz Caldoso de Marisco holds a special place in the Canary Islands cuisine, offering a sensory enjoyment for its rich flavors and comforting nature.
It’s served in a soup bowl brimming with tender rice infused with saffron, imparting a warm golden hue and a subtle floral aroma. This dish is a grand celebration of seafood – succulent squid, briny mussels, plump shrimp, and tender octopus — all simmered in an aromatic broth that reveals luscious oceanic flavors and freshness.
Despite being cooked in a soup, the rice remains distinct and firm, setting it apart from porridge. It absorbs the broth’s rich flavors while maintaining its integrity. Scoop up some rice with other ingredients – the sweetness of seafood balanced by the hey-like, grassy notes of the saffron, accompanied by the soft paprika and the savory broth. Each spoonful is downright gratifying!
Crema Catalana is a classic Spanish dessert we’ve enjoyed several times during this trip.
At La Tasquita Gallega, this custard-based treat is similar to crème brûlée, but with its own twist, being subtly flavored with citrus zest and cinnamon. The dessert is topped with a caramelized sugar crust that adds a pleasant contrast of textures—creamy, eggy underneath and crisp on top. Originating from Catalonia, Spain, Crema Catalana is a decadent finale to any meal.
This concludes our Gran Canaria series. Wherever you’re from, even the most breathtaking landscapes can sometimes feel routine. Whoever we are or whatever we’ve achieved, there comes a time when we desire to seek new horizons. When that moment comes, and we’re longing for a change, may we all embark on a journey with a carefree heart, embracing the elegance of following our own path and encountering a scenery uniquely our own.
