Tejeda and More: Exploring Gran Canaria’s Mountain Oasis and Dining

Previously, we headed north from Maspalomas towards the iconic Roque Nublo. A short 30-minute drive further north into the center of the island will bring you to the picturesque town of Tejeda. Located not far from each other, Roque Nublo and Tejeda are popular destinations that are often visited together, allowing travelers to enjoy both stunning locations in one trip.

The drive from Maspalomas to Tejeda took us about 1.5 hours, winding through verdant landscapes and ascending into the mountains. As we neared Tejeda, the scenery transformed, revealing terraced green fields and classic Spanish white-washed houses dotting the hillsides.

Upon arrival, the first sight that caught our eye was the serene church dominating the central square. Painted in white and orange, it stood against a backdrop of rugged mountains and lush vegetation, under a perfectly blue sky without a cloud in sight.

Tejeda, at an elevation of about 1,050 meters (3,445 feet) above sea level, offers a naturally cooler climate compared to the coastal areas. Surrounded by lush greenery and enjoying the crisp mountain air, it felt like a world away. The expansive views and the quietude of the surroundings were simply refreshing.

The peaceful ambiance of the town is perfect for a leisurely stroll. Though small, Tejeda is full of little surprises, with flowers and greenery blooming everywhere. A casual glance reveals scenes like living paintings, as if they were meticulously designed to captivate the heart.  

If you want to sit down and relax, there are plenty of spots to enjoy the local flavors, whether it’s a full meal, a light snack, or a café treat.

The town of Tejeda seems to be a haven for dessert lovers, with numerous renowned pastry shops lining the charming streets. We stumbled upon an inviting ice cream shop named LaLexe and tried four delicious flavors.

LaLexe Con Gofio delivered a unique and comforting blend of nutty and slightly sweet gofio—a traditional Canarian flour made from roasted grain—combined with the creamy richness of the ice cream base. Hierbahuerto Con Toque De Menta tasted like a garden in a scoop. The herbal and slightly citrusy notes of the spearmint (hierbahuerto) were refreshing and cooling, with just a hint of fresh mint.

The Mango flavor burst with the tropical sweetness and juicy flavors of ripe mangoes. The Dark Chocolate ice cream didn’t disappoint with its deep, intense flavors, bitter and smooth.

There was just no better way to savor the moment than by letting the majestic mountain views enhance every sweet, indulgent bite.

As we went deeper into the town, we discovered a range of accommodations, from rustic rural hotels and cozy guesthouses to charming holiday rentals, priced from €70 to €150 per night. Located right in the middle of the rugged mountains, these lodgings offer a tranquil getaway and an immersive experience in the island’s natural beauty. There’re also plenty of outdoors activities to enjoy nearby, particularly hiking and climbing.

However, prepare for lots of zig-zagging mountain roads when driving back to your hotel. If you plan on exploring the entire island frequently, this is something to keep in mind.

Despite the winding roads, the drive to Tejeda is nothing short of breathtaking. The endless mountain ranges unfold like a dynamic canvas, each layer revealing more of the stunning landscape. You can gaze far into the distance, even catching a glimpse of the Teneriffa island, stretching all the way to the sea horizon —a view that truly rejuvenates the spirit.  

On our way back to Maspalomas, just a short 15-20 minutes’ drive from Tejeda, we passed by the fascinating hiking trail, Roque Bentayja. The hike is relatively short yet rewarding, taking about 20 minutes to reach the top. From there, the view is just amazing – majestic mountains sprawling far and wide under the clear blue sky.

Roque Bentayga holds deep archaeological significance as a sacred site for the ancient Canarian people. It features caves and rock shelters used for dwellings, burials, and likely rituals and astronomical observations. The ancient inhabitants were really ingenious, having constructed such structures atop this prominent peak, where they could enjoy the awe-inspiring panoramic views round-the-clock.

About an hour’s drive southwest of Roque Bentayga, on the road to Maspalomas, lies the beautiful village of Fataga. Nestled deep in the mountains of San Bartolome de Tirajana, it’s often shrouded in a veil of clouds, giving it an almost ethereal atmosphere. Adding to its charm are the colorful flags adorning the rooftops and the intricate wall murals depicting scenes of suns, birds and other lively motifs.

The combinations of Fataga’s mystical vibe, colorful decorations, and serene surroundings brings to mind the Tibetan scenery, where the payer flags flutter in the wind and the religious art invokes peace and spirituality.

Tips for your visit:
  • Culture and Heritage: Immerse yourself in Tejeda’s rich cultural heritage through its traditional architecture and charming squares. You can visit the Museo de la Historia y Tradiciones de Tejeda for a deeper understanding of its storied past. Admission costs around €2-3, and a visit typically takes 30 minutes to 1 hour. If you’re coming in January to early February, don’t miss their Almond Blossom Festival (Fiesta del Almendro en Flor). This period coincides with the blooming of almond trees in the region, transforming the area into a beautiful sea of pink and white blossoms. It is a lively celebration with traditional music, dancing, and local cuisine.
  • Hiking and Exploring the Area: The trails around Tejeda cater to a wide range of hiking abilities, offering something for casual walkers and experienced hikers alike. Within a 30-minute drive, you can reach iconic landmarks like Roque Nublo, Roque Bentayga, and Parque Rural del Nublo, all perfect for hiking and nature exploration.
  • Gastronomy: Indulge in the authentic Tejeda flavors with specialties like Mazapan oder Bienmesabe from Dulceria de Nublo. Bienmesabe a locally produced, traditional Canarian almond dessert that is especially famous in Tejeda. Other well-known local treats include goat and sheep cheese and honey.

Restaurante La Ciudadela is like a melting pot that has it all – pizza, steaks, grilled meats, fresh fish, vegetarian grills, and even the famous noodle paella known as Fideuà.

We were so excited by the menu that we almost went overboard with our order. But our thoughtful waiter, confident in their generous portions, stepped in and helped us scale back. So we settled on a juicy steak and a seafood fish platter.

The sirloin steak with rice, smashed potatoes and fries is an invigorating dish. Cooked to a perfect medium-rare, the steak is juicy and flavorful, with a soft, tender inside and a hint of smokiness. The highlight is definitely the 5-pepper sauce. Just when I thought Spanish food wasn’t spicy, this sauce proved me wrong. It packs quite a punch, challenging the stereotype that most Europeans can’t handle the heat and that they think pepper is spicy. Well, maybe they were talking about this 5-pepper sauce!

Despite the elevated heat, this sauce doesn’t lack in flavor complexity. It combines black, white, green, and pink peppers with possibly other exotic varieties, to create a distinctly bold sensation – pungent and numbing, yet at the same time floral, fruity, and a bit citrusy. It’s really one-of-a-kind.

Its smooth texture supremely complements the savory richness and sweet undertones of the steak. It coats the steak evenly, enhancing its juiciness without overpowering it, and distributes the flavors throughout every hearty bite.

Notably, the spiciness of 5-pepper sauce can vary. Depending on the specific peppers and recipe used, some versions may be milder. It’s a good idea to ask about the spicy level if you have concerns about heat.

The seafood fish platter includes grilled hake, monkfish, mussels, clams, calamaries, red shrimps and Norway lobster (also known as langoustine or Dublin Bay prawn), boiled potatoes, and paired with red mojo, green mojo, and aioli.

Beloved Canarian dipping sauces, red mojo is rich and smoky with a hint of spice, while green mojo is fresh, tangy, and herbaceous. Often enjoyed with “papas arrugadas” (wrinkled potatoes), these mojos are a staple and local favorite in Canarian cuisine.

The seafood and fish, masterfully grilled Spanish-style, offer a light yet intensely fresh flavor and briny depths of the ocean. Grilled hake is delicately sweet, tender with a hint of smokiness, while the monkfish brings a robust, meaty bite similar to lobster. Fresh plump mussels always delight with their briny juiciness, their vibrant flavors are elevated even more when enjoyed with green mojo. Squid/Calamari tantalize with their unique, firm tenderness and crisp exterior, brimming with oceanic flavor.

Red shrimps add a burst of sweet brininess, a perfect match for the aioli’s creamy notes. Norway lobster boasts a natural sweetness and a more delicate, succulent flavor that tastes especially good with the vibrant flavors of the mojos.

Mix and match as you please—there are no bad combos here! But if you want our top picks, we’ve shared our highlights for you.

After a rigorous drive on mountain roads, invigorating hikes, and some great food, we found ourselves utterly content lying by the beach. As the sun set over Playa del Inglés, the beach emptied, leaving us to recline on the sand, our bags as makeshift pillows. Above us, stars began to twinkle, painting graceful arcs across the vast sky. Gazing at the boundless sea and the celestial sway above, a wave of wistful nostalgia washed over us. Today has passed—just one of the many days in our lives. Tomorrow will bring a new dawn, and we remain ever young.

Our next trip will be to the wild west world of Sioux City. See you soon!

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