As we continue our tour of Lisbon’s central area, this time, we’re heading to the enchanting Alfama district, where the charm of the old town wraps around you with its narrow streets, historic architecture, and breathtaking views of the city and ocean. Wandering through Alfama, you’ll be serenaded by the nostalgic notes of Fado drifting from open windows, the smoky scent of freshly grilled sardines, and the lively buzz of locals going about their day.
We start our exploration at the Cathedral of Lisbon (Sé de Lisboa), a majestic symbol of the city’s rich history. This stunning cathedral, with its Romanesque architecture and Gothic details, dates back to the 12th century.
It stands as one of the oldest and most important religious buildings in Lisbon. Entry to the cathedral itself is usually free, but for a small fee, you can explore the cloisters and the treasury, where artifacts and historical relics are displayed. The atmosphere inside is serene, with high ceilings and beautifully detailed stonework, offering a glimpse into the city’s past.
From the cathedral, it’s just a short walk up the hill to Castelo de São Jorge, but the journey itself is a treat. Along the way, you’ll pass one of Alfama’s most beautiful spots, the Miradouro das Portas do Sol. This scenic viewpoint unfolds breathtaking views over the terracotta rooftops, the shimmering Tagus River, and the winding streets below.
As you walk, you’ll find yourself on cobblestone streets lined with the intricate Portuguese brick patterns, light blue walls, and bright purple flowers, all leading to the iconic orange-tiled roofs that stretch toward the water.
The ocean view here is really soothing, and on a clear day, the sea breeze gently brushes against your face, lifting your hair, and filling the air with a sense of calm and clarity. It’s the kind of moment that makes you want to slow down, stroll along the riverside, and peering over the rooftops from the vantage points, fully immersed in Lisbon’s coastal beauty.
Alfama’s streets are full of interesting sights, from small cafes and local shops to historic trams and old cars navigating the narrow alleys. This part of Lisbon has a distinct old-town feel, with laundry hanging from balconies and friendly locals chatting at their doorsteps. It’s a place where the past and present blend, into a timeless echo that gives this district its unique authenticity and energy.
Castelo de São Jorge is a medieval castle perched on Lisbon’s highest hill, offering a mesmerizing panoramic view of the city and the Tagus River. As you enter through the impressive old gate, you can feel the weight of history— this fortress, originally built by the Moors in the 11th century and later taken over by the Portuguese, is a true relic of Lisbon’s rich past.
Inside, lush greenery, with Mediterranean pines and cypress trees, creates a serene escape amid the historic ambiance. The medieval vibe is palpable as you stroll along the ancient stone walls.
One of the best surprises is the colorful peacocks that roam freely within the castle grounds. Watching one fan out its dazzling tail is captivating. They often meander close, strutting through the gardens and making for a whimsical moment as they walk alongside you.
As you explore, don’t miss the chance to walk along the battlements. Here, you can climb up to different towers, each offering unique perspectives of the city below.
The short climbs are well worth it, as you take in enchanting views of Lisbon, the bustling streets, and, of course, the sight of the Tagus River glistening in the sunlight.
To top it all off, you’ll also find charming cafes overlooking the river, where you can enjoy a drink while savoring the spectacular scenery – a great way to unwind and soak in the charm of this remarkable fortress.
Tips for your visit:
- Plan Your Visit: Check the opening hours for the Cathedral of Lisbon (more info) and consider visiting early or late in the day to avoid crowds. Suggest to set aside about 30 to 60 minutes for the Cathedral of Lisbon and around 1 to 2 hours for exploring the Castelo de São Jorge.
- Capture the Moments: Bring your camera to Miradouro das Portas do Sol and Castelo de São Jorge for stunning photo opportunities, especially during sunrise or sunset.
- Ticket Options: You can buy tickets online for Castelo de São Jorge (more info), but on-site tickets are also readily available with only minimal wait times.
The restaurant we’re featuring this time may be tucked away and modest in size, but it boasts a lively atmosphere that’s very inviting. Decorated with colorful brick patterns on the tables and walls, it feels like a natural extension of Lisbon’s vibrant tiled facades. Seating can be a bit snug, so you might find yourself sharing a table with other diners, but the diverse menu and reasonable prices attract both locals and tourists in droves. If you’re looking for authentic Portuguese cuisine, Lisboa Tu e Eu 2 is a great place to savor the flavors of the region.
The first dish we simply had to try was the iconic Grilled Sardines. All day long, as we walked the streets, the enticingly smoky, savory scent wafting from restaurants seemed to follow us. So when we spotted it on the menu, we didn’t hesitate to order.
These grilled sardines come paired with a side of potatoes and topped with fresh scallions and onions. Each fish, large and beautiful, is lightly browned on the outside. The sardines have a robust, slightly salty taste, with the smoky char adding a hint of bitterness that balances their natural richness.
In Portugal, especially during summer festivals, you often see them cooked right on the streets. It’s simple, but magical – the grill enhances the fish’s natural oils, creating a crispy skin that locks in the moist, flavorful flesh. Each tender morsel is packed with that signature umami flavor that makes Portuguese sardines so special.
Alheira is a standout dish that we can truly recommend. This traditional Portuguese sausage comes served with potatoes, cornbread, and a pan-fried egg. Its unique shape—flat instead of round—adds a distinctive Portuguese touch.
The sausage itself bursts with savory, smoky flavors, infused with spices like garlic, paprika, and herbs that give it a rich, aromatic taste. When you cut into the egg, the half-liquid yolk drips onto the sausage, adding a layer of creaminess that elevates the mouthfeel. Paired with hearty potatoes and the subtly sweet cornbread, this dish is a true comfort food—robust, filling, and packed with flavor.
The last main course we tried was Cod Fish with Cream, a special creation that isn’t officially listed on the menu but offered as a dish of the day. Shaped into a lovely heart, it’s topped with a sprinkle of yellow breadcrumbs, adding a subtle crunch.
This dish embodies the Portuguese passion for bacalhau (salted cod), often considered a national treasure. The fish has a mild, slightly sweet taste, with the salt-curing process bringing out its natural brininess. The flesh is firm yet tender, with a moist, flaky quality. The rich cream envelops the fish in a luxurious velvetiness, softening its saltiness, while the cilantro and olives lend a fresh, savory contrast to the rich creaminess. Together with crunchy breadcrumbs, it gives a well-rounded mouthfeel that’s both indulgent and flavorful.
We hope you’ve enjoyed the journey through Lisbon’s inner city so far. Next time, we’ll head out of the city, to the enchanting Pena Castle, where fairytale turrets and breathtaking views await. Stay tuned for more and we’ll see you soon!
