Waking up in Lisbon felt like entering a different time and space. The night passed dreamlessly, and as morning light filtered gently through the skylight, the crisp, clean air of the city softly stirred our senses awake. It was as if the very blood in our veins was coming to life, ready to rhyme with this vibrant yet tranquil coastal city. Opening our eyes to the serene expanse of the Tagus River, stretching out beneath a sky that felt intimately close, but also infinitely distant.
Just a few steps down from our place, we got ourselves a classic Lisbon breakfast spread—crispy bacon, savory ham, creamy cheese, a fluffy omelet, and, of course, the iconic pastéis de nata (custard tarts). All accompanied by freshly squeezed orange juice, a steaming cup of black tea, and a refreshing fruit salad – a perfect way to set the stage for an energetic day.
Our hearty breakfast may be more common for those gearing up for a long day, but in Lisbon, mornings usually begin with something light and simple, often centered around coffee and pastries. Many locals start their day with a strong espresso or a galão, paired with a pão de Deus or a pastel de nata. These iconic custard tarts, with their crisp, flaky pastry and rich, creamy filling, are best enjoyed with a strong coffee, offering a delicious taste of Lisbon’s local lifestyle.
Our first stop is the Carmo Convent, a hauntingly beautiful ruin that speaks to Lisbon’s past through its weathered walls and open skies. Once a grand Gothic church, the convent was devastated by the catastrophic earthquake of 1755, leaving behind only its skeleton—a powerful reminder of the unpredictable and often destructive nature of history.
The exposed arches and roofless nave, bathed in sunlight, create a solemn atmosphere, as if the very air is steeped in the past.
Despite its solemnity, the Carmo Convent is softened by the vibrant, purple jacaranda flowers that bloom around it, adding a touch of romance and gentleness. Its resilience and beauty create a unique and moving scene — one that captures both the gravity and grace of Lisbon’s storied past.
Today, it houses the Carmo Archaeological Museum, where you can see artifacts from various periods, including medieval tombs, ancient sculptures, and relics from the convent’s own history. Seemingly it’s the first art and archaeology museum in the country, and definitely worth a visit. Tickets are priced at around €5 per person, and a visit usually takes between 1 to 2 hours (more info). You can also purchase a special ticket for the “Lisbon Under the Stars” show, priced around €20 per person. This multimedia light and sound show takes place in the open-air nave of the Carmo Convent, where Lisbon’s history is vividly projected onto the ancient church walls, creating a captivating evening atmosphere (more info).
As we walk past the Carmo Convent, a wide expanse unfolds before us, revealing Lisbon’s iconic red-tiled rooftops and whitewashed buildings in a stunning panorama. Just ahead is the bridge that leads to the Santa Justa Lift. It offers breathtaking views on either side—a sweeping vista that spans far into the distance.
The majestic Castelo de S. Jorge stands proudly in the distance, while an avenue cuts through the heart of the city, giving Lisbon a sense of orderly charm. A crisp wind brushes past our ears, bringing a refreshing sense of freedom and clarity.
The Santa Justa Lift, completed in 1902, is over a century old. It’s one of Lisbon’s most iconic landmarks and a remarkable example of early 20th-century engineering. Designed by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, a student of Gustave Eiffel (designer of Eiffel Tower), the lift impresses with a strikingly industrial yet elegant charm. Made entirely of iron, it features intricate neo-Gothic patterns on its exterior, giving it a lace-like appearance despite its heavy material.
Echoing the empowering feeling of the Santa Justa Lift, interestingly enough, there is women statue nearby, standing like a warrior, holding a mini vacuum cleaner.
Is this a commentary on the role of women and their often-overlooked strength and endurance in daily life? By choosing a household vacuum over a traditional weapon, does it imply while women’s power is acknowledged, it remains confined to domestic sphere? What an ironic and playful nod to current societal themes.
While riding the lift gives a unique perspective of the city, the queue is usually very long, especially during peak seasons (30 min to over an hour). The ride costs around €5.30, including access to the viewing platform.
That said, we found that it might not worth the wait. By walking across the bridge connected to the lift, we reached nearly the same height and enjoyed fantastic views. So it can be a good alternative if you don’t want the hassle of standing in line.
From the Santa Justa Lift, it’s about a 10 to 15-minute walk to the Praça do Comércio. As we make our way there, the bustling sounds of the city surround us—the hum of cars, the chatter of people, and the occasional rattle of old cables that makes us feel like stepping back in time. The streets aren’t particularly wide, making it slightly inconvenient for pedestrians, but with slow-moving traffic, it’s more of a mild distraction than a danger.
As we continue, the noise gradually subsides, and the city begins to open up before us. The streets become quieter, and soon, we arrive at the edge of the Praça do Comércio. This grand square, framed by gleaming white and vibrant yellow buildings, feels incredibly spacious, even amidst the crowds.
The white and yellow colors are a hallmark of the Pombaline architectural style. After the devastating earthquake of 1755, the area was rebuilt under the direction of the Marquis of Pombal, who designed it to symbolize the rebirth of Lisbon. The yellow represents optimism and energy, while the white reflects purity and light.
Surrounding the square are elegant cafés and restaurants, and as you approach the waterfront, you’ll find small stalls selling drinks and souvenirs. The brisk sound of American English often drifts our way. Lisbon seems to be popular among U.S. travelers, likely due to the relatively short flight compared to other European cities.
Looking across the Tagus River is the iconic red 25 de Abril Bridge, which resembles San Francisco’s Golden Gate. On the other side, the Christ the King statue rises, overlooking Almada with outstretched arms. This statue, reminiscent of Rio de Janeiro’s Christ the Redeemer, is a symbol of peace and protection. Visiting the statue, including the journey across the bridge, usually takes about 2 to 3 hours. Alternatively, you can get there by bus or ferry. The area around the statue is peaceful, with traditional seafood spots near the riverfront. However, if your time is limited, it may be better to focus on Lisbon’s main attractions first.
After a full day of exploring, it’s time to treat ourselves to some delicious food. We’d like to recommend a hidden restaurant called Taverna Alfacinha. Though it may not catch your eye at first, the fresh and flavorful dishes here are well worth a try.
To start, let’s try the Mexilhão—mussels with garlic. This dish arrives with plump, fresh mussels in a orange, soup-like sauce that’s bursting with flavor.
The sauce is a rich blend of olive oil, garlic, white wine, and possibly a hint of paprika or tomato, creating a savory base with bright acidity and a mild smokiness. It complements the briny taste of the mussels, while the fresh cilantro adds an herbal note. A squeeze of lemon gives a citrusy finish, offering a taste of the sea with a punch of Mediterranean zest.
The Salmão—Grilled Salmon at Alfacinha is a simple yet satisfying dish. The dish is served with grilled vegetables—broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, and bell peppers—for vibrancy and nutrition, along with boiled potatoes for a comforting base.
The salmon steak is expertly grilled, not charred or overbrowned, preserving its natural tender juiciness. Cooking with bones intact helps insulate the flesh, keeping it moist and letting the rich fish oils distribute thoroughly, enhancing its deep flavor. Its natural fattiness also becomes more pronounced, creating a buttery, melt-in-your-mouth quality that’s complemented by the subtle smokiness from the grill. It’s a very delicious dish, showcasing Portuguese love for fresh, unpretentious food.
Arroz de Polvo – Octopus Rice is a traditional Portuguese classic, cherished in households and often enjoyed at family gatherings and special occasions. Though often compared to Spanish paella, Arroz de Polvo makes its mark with distinct Portuguese flair.
The dish features rice cooked to perfection, with each grain separate yet fully immersed in a thick, flavorful broth. The deep, reddish-brown soup boasts a complex flavor profile. Made from a combination of tomatoes, onions, garlic, and paprika, it has a vibrant color and a slightly smoky taste.
It’s topped with fresh green onions and cilantro and generously mixed with tender, bouncy octopus’ pieces. The octopus is savory, tender, maintaining a slight chewiness that contrasts beautifully with the tender rice. Hearty and comforting, this dish manifests the very charm of Portuguese home cooking.
Lisbon truly is a fascinating city that celebrates the art of living. The city exudes a warm and welcoming atmosphere, all while flaunting a rich history and deep cultural heritage. Lonely Planet once named Lisbon as one of the top ten cities in the world, and yet, surprisingly, it’s one of the least-visited capitals in Europe. This only adds to its allure.
The city center is particularly well-suited for exploring on foot. Next time, we’ll wander to the Alfama district to soak in its traditional streets, visit the majestic Cathedral of Lisbon and the historic Castelo de S. Jorge. Until then, see you next time!
