Enchanting Shanghai: Rediscovering the City and it’s Culinary Secrets After 5 Years Abroad

Shanghai – the city where I had the pleasure to spend wonderful years – still fascinates me after many years. A leisurely stroll along the picturesque tree-lined avenues in the French Concession, the hustle and bustle in the subways, and the impressive atmosphere in Pudong are still vivid in my memory. Now, after 5 years and due to the lifting of the COVID-19 restrictions, we finally had the opportunity to travel back to China, and our first stop was, unsurprisingly, Shanghai.

In this article, I would like to introduce you to Shanghai’s most famous attraction, the “Wallpaper Classic” – the promenade known as “The Bund” – and take you on a journey through the highly popular pedestrian zone, Nanjing East Road, which is loved by both tourists and locals (in another post, we had already explored Jianghan Road in Wuhan). Additionally, we will delve into the excellent cuisine from Yunnan, which is a new addition to this blog.

Why visit Shanghai? While it may not boast the density of cultural monuments of cities like Beijing, Shanghai’s impressive blend of tradition and modernity makes it one of the world’s most important metropolises. The imposing skyline and historic districts with traditional architecture, along with the international flair, culinary diversity and monumental landmarks, make Shanghai a unique destination.

How to get there?

  • Shanghai Intl. Airport – one of the country’s largest airports with connections worldwide.
    • The city center is easily accessible by Maglev train/subway or taxi/DiDi (the Chinese Uber).
  • (High-speed) Train – connects to most major urban areas in the country, ideal for those planning to explore other Chinese cities.
    • E.g. for the Shanghai – Beijing route, depending on the connection, it takes approximately 4-6 hours.
  • Car – be cautious of the dense traffic in Shanghai; opt for train or flight.
    • Note: International driver’s licenses are not valid in China.

Where to stay?

  • Xuhui: Home to the charming French Concession with tree-lined streets, boutiques, cafes, and art galleries, and the creative Tianzifang artist quarter.
  • Huangpu: Centrally located with quick access to restaurants and attractions such as The Bund, Nanjing Road, Yuyuan Gardens, and Old Town Shanghai (Nanshi).
  • Jing’an: A lively district – featuring the Jing’an Temple and Zhongshan Park. A mix of trendy shopping centers, restaurants, and bars.
  • Pudong: In the heart of Shanghai’s famous skyline, a modern district with the city’s crucial financial district and many business and luxury hotels.

Shanghai currently has the largest subway network in the world with over 20 lines. The subway runs at frequent intervals and provides easy access to all parts of the city. The Shanghai subway is well organized, efficient, and comfortable, with modern, clean, and well-maintained trains and well-signposted stations.

Shanghai’s culinary diversity is remarkable. There are restaurants from every province in the country, as well as from other countries and cultures around the world. From local Shanghai cuisine to Sichuan classics, burger joints or upscale international dining, you can find it all here. You’ll even come across traditional German cuisine. There’s really something for everyone! On the downside for enthusiasts of authentic Chinese cuisine, the street food scene is gradually shrinking. Along the city’s path to modernization, many small stalls and markets have been closed, which is a pity in my opinion.

As mentioned above, in this blog post I would like to introduce you to the dishes of Yunnan, a province that is often overlooked but has an excellent cuisine. Yunnan is one of the most picturesque provinces in the country and one of the ethnically diverse regions of China with a large number of different minority groups. This is also reflected in the country’s cuisine with diverse flavors and spices, and many natural ingredients.

During our visit to Shanghai, we dined at a restaurant (Yun Hai Yao 云海肴) that I hadn’t been to in years. The anticipation builds as we enter the restaurant. We’ve spent wonderful hours here enjoying hot tea and spicy Yunnan dishes with our friends while chatting about everyday things.

And what have we got this time? We start with a classic, rice noodles, the staple food of Yunnan, in an aromatic broth with mushrooms from the province’s rich forests and mountains (金汤肥牛菌菇米线). A simple version of “Crossing the Bridge Noodles” (Guoqiao Mixian – 过桥米线), often served as a soup base with a selection of raw ingredients cooked in hot broth. The name of the dish comes from an old legend about a woman who had to cross a bridge every day to bring food to her husband. To keep the food warm, she prepared the broth beforehand and combined it with various ingredients while crossing the bridge.

The noodle soup is spicy and slightly sour, offering a balanced flavor palette with the meat broth and fresh ingredients like vegetables, meat and mushrooms.

Next comes one of my all-time favorite dishes: wild porcini mushrooms with fried bacon (野生牛肝菌炒腊肉). You can almost taste the spirit of Yunnan’s forests and mountains. The porcini mushrooms are crisp and fresh, with a subtle roasted taste. The smoky, spicy flavor of the bacon, combined with Yunnan’s spices, provides a delicious contrast of textures and flavors.

Next up is Huopiao beef stew (火飘牛肉煲), a type of spicy beef stew. This dish combines tender pieces of beef stomach, mandatory Yunnan mushrooms, various vegetables (such as green onions), and is cooked in a spicy broth. Ideal for food lovers who appreciate both offal and spicy chilies.

The last dish of the day is our highlight and visually stunning: Grilled Lemongrass Tilapia (泰味香茅草靠烤罗非鱼). The tilapia is prepared on a charcoal grill. The flavor is characterized by fresh lemongrass, spicy seasonings, fresh Chinese herbs such as coriander, and the mild, smoky aroma of grilled tilapia. It is served with whole chiles and lightly sauteed tomatoes. It is truly a feast for the eyes! And it tastes as good as it looks. The fresh lemongrass blends with the heat of the chiles and the smoky, juicy tilapia – refreshing and savory at the same time. Here you can see the cultural diversity of Yunnan, with influences from both Chinese and Southeast Asian cuisines.

After a hearty meal, we head out to explore the city. We take the subway and get off at Nanjing East Road Station – Line 2. Coming out of the subway, one is immediately overwhelmed by the famous shopping street of the city – Nanjing East Road. Dense crowds, towering buildings and lights everywhere. Well-preserved historical buildings and modern architectural monuments reflect the city’s development from colonial times to China’s financial capital. There are food markets, food stalls, chic restaurants, large inviting shops and luxury boutiques. Especially after dark, the street transforms into a lively and colorful atmosphere with impressive lighting. It’s a good idea to take a stroll down the pedestrian mall in both directions; you’ll be surprised at every turn.

However, the absolute highlight, especially in the evening or at night, is the waterfront promenade “The Bund“. On the western side in Huangpu, there are impressive architectural remnants of the colonial era, such as the Peace Hotel and the Customs House. On the eastern side in Pudong, the world-famous skyline rises with colossal buildings such as the Shanghai Tower, the Jin Mao Tower and the wonderfully colorful TV Tower.

Despite the large crowds, especially in the evening, a visit is highly recommended. The play of colors in the skyline, the imposing historical buildings, the wide Huangpu River with its countless brightly lit boats and the extensive waterfront promenade make this attraction truly special. It is a vivid demonstration of the colossal size of this Asian metropolis.

Hope you enjoyed this guide? Next time in Shanghai, we will introduce you to our favorite hotpot from Chaoshan and give you some insights into the shopping paradise of Shanghai. See you soon!

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