A few years ago, I often heard about Vienna from a former colleague, who has immense admiration for Mozart. She would take long-haul flights from Shanghai to catch any performance by Mozart in the Golden Hall. When her feelings run deep for the music, she would shed a few tears at Mozart’s grave, mourning the early passing of this extraordinary talent.
Her vivid depiction of the Golden Hall painted my first impression of Vienna – a testament to classical grandeur and majestic architecture. Fast forward several years, on the occasion of celebrating the New Year, I got to set foot in this realm of regal beauty myself and experience its rich ambiance. My heart was full of anticipation.
Catering to the holiday season, Vienna has dressed itself into a meticulous host, welcoming tourists from all over the world. Everywhere you see Christmas-themed décors, from oversized bow ties to giant mistletoe, turning the entire city center into a beautifully wrapped present just waiting to be opened. Now all that’s left is for the festive moment to arrive.
As the dawn quietly approaches, the lights come on like a work of magic – the radiant glow of the enormous chandeliers, the opulent elegance of the lavishly decorated buildings, the enchanting grace of the classical music in the background, all determined to win over our hearts, by displaying their captivating spender and magnificence with no restraint.
We spent a total of 6 days in Vienna, just enough to check off everything on our list. Surely the ideal duration may vary based on personal interests and the depth of the desired explorations. The generally recommended stay is around 3-4 days. This should suffice to cover the major attractions; some leisurely city center sightseeing or even museum visits. Later in this article, we’ll cover some of the much-touted mandatory eats that people would wait in line for hours to savor. So ambitious foodies may want to consider this in the itineraries.
Where to stay?
- Innere Stadt (Inner City): stay here and you’ll be within walking distance of many iconic landmarks, like St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Hofburg Palace, and the Vienna State Opera. Keep in mind, though, it’s on the pricier side
- Leopoldstadt (Second District): This is our pick. A vibrant district with a mix of modern and historic elements, known for the Prater Park and the Giant Ferris Wheel Accommodations here are more budget-friendly, and with Vienna’s efficient subway system, getting to the main attractions is a very easy. Affordable weekly subway ticket (i.e. valid for 7 days) at 17 EUR per person.
- Mariahilf: Located outside the Ringstrasse, Mariahilf is a trendy district with shopping streets like Mariahilfer Strasse, a lively area and best for exploring local boutiques.
- Neubau: A good choice if you want to experience Vienna’s creative vibe, as it’s filled with many galleries, shops, and hip cafes.
- Wieden: Located near the city center, Wieden offers a residential retreat that’s both tranquil and well-connected.
- Vienna Woods (Wienerwald): For a more nature-oriented stay, Vienna Woods is not a bad choice. It’s a bit outside the city but offers a peaceful environment.
How to get there?
- By Train: Since Germany and Austria have well-developed rail networks. We took an ICE high-speed train. It took 6.5 hours from Frankfurt and was a relaxing experience. We recommend booking in advance, and don’t forget to reserve seats, especially during peak times – you’ll be thankful for the foresight!
- Car: A road trip to Vienna is not a bad choice. The highways are well-maintained. You can plan the routes through scenic landscapes, such as Bavarian countryside. A quick note: check for border crossing requirements, and an Austrian motorway sticker (also known as Vignette or toll) may be required. Prices vary, but a 10-day pass for a passenger car should cost around 12 EUR. More info can be found on the Austrian Motorway Website – https://www.asfinag.at/en/toll/vignette/
- By Air: Vienna International Airport has good connections to major airports in Germany and worldwide. From Frankfurt it takes around 1-2 hours, with a smooth transition to the city center. You can take the airport train (CAT) or the S-Bahn – a swift 16 min by train and 25 min by S-Bahn, both running every 30 min. There are also several Airport Bus lines that take you to different parts of the city.
For sightseeing, many will start with the city center (known as the Historic Centre of Vienna), where you have many landmarks within walking distance. Just by strolling through the diverse range of architectural beauty, you are immediately immersed in its rich history and culture.
The St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stephansdom), the symbol of Vienna. The Gothic cathedral, with its iconic colorful geometric zigzag patterns on its roof, stands out from the surrounding buildings and uniquely shapes the cityscape. You can climb the South Tower for a panoramic view of the city.
Vienna State Opera, one of the world’s leading opera houses. Even if you don’t attend a show there, the stunning architecture alone is worth a visit.
The Golden Hall of the Musikverein, the world-famous concert hall, known for its exceptional acoustics and its distinctive golden color décor. The highly sought-after performances there can sell out quickly. We tried to book Mozart and Vivaldi in November, but all had been sold out by March. So strongly recommend to plan ahead. You can also opt for a guided tour to see the inside of the hall, explore its ageless magnificence and learn about its importance in classical music.
If you’re an art fan, the list gets longer. You can go see Dürer, Michelangelo, and Picasso at the Albertina Museum and Art Gallery, which houses an extensive collection of graphic art. At Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art History), you can admire the impressive works of Rubens, Rembrandt, and Vermeer.
Hofburg Imperial Palace, a living legacy of the Habsburg Empire and the city’s glorious history. It was the main imperial residence for the Habsburgs for centuries. From the intricate detailing and elegant ornamentation and furnishings, you can get a glimpse of the lavish lifestyle of the imperial family. It houses several museums incl. the Sisi Museum.
Nearby is the Spanish Riding School, where you can watch the famous equestrian Lipizzaner horse show. It features precise, highly skilled “airs above the ground” movements to show strength, agility and elegance. Dating back to 16th century, the equestrian arts symbolize the power, nobility and sophistication of the ruling class and the prestige and authority of the Habsburg dynasty.
Take a curious look around the heart of the city, you’ll be surprised by many small details. From intricate doorframe ornamentation to diverse architectural styles, each weaves a thread of delicate sentiment into the city’s glorious vibe, vividly narrating its rich and storied past.
After a delightful stroll, you’ll probably want some time to recharge, just like we did. One question remains: What does Vienna have to offer when it comes to food?
This romantic city offers a diverse culinary scene – not only century-old Gasthaus (or inns) and coffeehouses, but also international foods and restaurants, a mix of traditional and modern, local and global. Let’s start with some of the “mandatory eats”.
One of them is Schnitzel.
It’s widely believed that Vienna is the home of the Schnitzel, specifically the “Wiener Schnitzel”. It’s breaded and fried veal or port cutlet, a culinary icon in German-speaking countries. Among the numerous restaurants in Vienna that serve Schnitzel, Figlmüller stands out, marked by its almost never-ceasing long queue. Though the origin of Schnitzel can’t be tied to any single establishment, Figlmüller, which has been serving it since 1905, is considered as a go-to for traditional, authentic and top-notch Schnitzel experience.
When the dishes arrived, I was instantly heartened by the “hospitality” that I often encounter in Germany – the meat piece is larger than the plate, whereas elsewhere a magnifying glass may be needed to find the miniature food. The dish is usually paired with a slice of lemon to squeeze over. Some also order a lingonberry jam as a side dish or sauce.
It’s said that Figlmüller has its own unique approach and secrets to prepare this dish.
What I find really special there is that the Schnitzel is much thinner than elsewhere! The coating is not thick and the cutlet is pounded to an even thickness. The breading clings weightlessly to the meat surface, like a piece of soft tissue paper. The golden-brown skin is like a dream, crispy but not overpowering. The meat is lean, thoroughly cooked, yet very tender. Despite its fried nature, it’s not greasy at all. Thanks to its thinness, the frying time can be greatly reduced, contributing to less oil absorption and a lighter texture.
The traditional Schnitzel is with veal. But we highly recommend the pork one too! The perfectly balanced ratio of coating to meat doesn’t make you feel heavy, but lets the flavors of the meat really shine through, while giving you a satisfying crunch with every bite!
In Vienna, the meat dishes often come with Erdäpfelsalat, at Figlmüller too, if you order Pork Schnitzel. It’s also known as Austrian potato salad – sliced potatoes with a tangy dressing of mustard, vinegar and oil and toppings of fresh vegetables. It’s a tradition in many European countries, Austria included, to serve potato salad with meat-based dishes. It’s quite tasty and helps balance the flavor with its acidity.
The next one is perfect for winter – the Tafelspitz: A traditional Austrian boiled beef dish. We tried it at Restaurant Ofenloch, where it’s served with apple-horseradish sauce, mustard, and roasted potatoes. And we ordered a spinach sauce on top.
The rich aroma hits our senses as soon as the waiter places the first Tafelspitz piece on our plates. The beef itself, after an extended stewing time, has a sublime tenderness. After we took a bite, all the flavors it absorbed from the broth reveal themselves. The meat is so soft that it yields with the slightest chew.
If you want some heat, you can eat it with the apple-horseradish sauce. The sauce has a very unique taste. It’s tangy, spicy, combined with a mild sweetness from the apples. The strong pungent taste is a bit similar to wasabi, but with a hint of sweetness that helps balance the heat. If you apply a little spinach sauce too, you’ll have a touch of bitterness that adds a nuanced layer and contrast to the richness of the meat, making the overall taste intricate, deep and well-balanced.
The start of the show that you must not miss is the soup. Enriched by concentrated flavors from the meat and vegetables, the broth captures the essence of slow simmering, allowing the subtle seasoning to unveil the authentic, natural flavors of each ingredient, making the dish all the more nourishing and comforting.
Vienna is famous for its coffee culture. But it’s not just about a cup of joe, it’s a midday pause that beckons with the promise of delicious sweetness. Strolling through its charming streets, you can practically taste the sweetness in the air, inviting you to an irresistible treat.
The choices are endless. We can assure – begin with Kaiserschmarrn, and you won’t regret it! Having sampled all round, the one at Demel steals the spotlight, despite the long wait and higher price.
Demel, a historic pastry shop dating back to 18th century, is considered the champion in making this iconic delight. This dish is essentially a shredded and caramelized pancake. It has a noticeable eggy flavor, and caramel sweetness as hinted by its golden-brown crust. At Demel, we find it lighter and fluffier than elsewhere. Especially when freshly made, it arrives warm, airy, and tender, boasting a sweet eggy richness and deep flavor. Paired with tangy note of the plum jam, it’s a real indulgence.
If you’ve enjoyed the journey so far, buckle up for the next one! We’ll take you beyond the inner city, delve into the enchanting world of the Vivaldi Concert, and continue our Hao Chi (delicious) journey through Vienna’s rich culinary culture. Stay tuned!
I want to to thank you forr thiss wonderful read!!
I definitely enjoyed every bit of it. I have you
book-marked to check out new stuff you post…
Thank you so much for your comment! It means a lot and encourages us to keep making more content. Thanks again for sticking around – more to come 🙂